Monthly Archives: November 2010

Orange Line Adventures, Part II!

As promised, the continued saga of our trip to JP and the Scottish delights we encountered there!

After thoroughly enjoying all of the appetizers, it was time to dig into our entrees. For the most part we tried for “traditional” fare, though we made an exception for duck. It is imperative, if you’re dining with me, that you always make exceptions for the duck.

For my own part, however, I went with the sassitch and mash.
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The sassitch refers to a lovely house-made sausage, in this case pork combined with apples and sage (you can see a bit of apple poking out in the photo!), always a fantastic group of flavors. Mash can mean any of a number of mashed vegetables, often turnip or potato, but in this case roasted sweet potato, to play nicely with the fall flavors of the sausage. Finally the kale on the side added a bit of much-needed bitterness to balance all of the sweetness, and the cider-jus, with bacon and duck stock, was to die for. The leftovers made a killer hash the next day, too!

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The beef and ale pie! The ale really brings out all of the flavor of the beef, and the caraway crust was perfectly flaky.

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Hard to see, alas (it was VERY dark!) but this is the fish supper – beer-battered haddock, thick chips, and mushy peas. Fish and chips, but very, very good ones, some of the most tender fish I’ve had outside of home in my life, and the batter was thick and delicious. I’d never had mushy peas before – essentially mashed fresh peas with mint. Very green-tasting, and I liked them, but they were served cold and I think I prefer my veggies of this type hot, as a general rule. Others at the table had no such qualms, however, and they did not go to waste!

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Our duck exception, and it was exceptional! The duck was perfection, crispy outside, still rosy inside, and served with mustard greens, red curry, and some kaffir lime yogurt that makes me want to go back and ask for the recipe.

Now I know that at this point you might be thinking, “BUT WHAT ABOUT THE HAGGIS?” Fear not, my lovelies, for it was ordered and it was eaten. I didn’t get it as my personal entree because two other folks at the table were getting it and I wanted to make sure we had our culinary bases covered (though I needn’t have worried, two other folks ordered the sassitch!).
Here she is:
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A few words about the Haven’s haggis, before I give my thoughts. First, rather than a sheep’s stomach, they use a beef sausage casing. Secondly, they forgo the pesky, only-recently-legal lungs in the filling,though the heart and kidneys are still present. Finally, they serve it with a Drambuie butter, which maybe the tastiest damned thing that’s happened to butter in many a year. I think I may need to make some of my own to keep around the house and spread on everything.

And so, my thoughts – fantastic. The filling ends up being soft and rich, with the strong flavor of the heart coming through. Served on a bed of mashed sweet potatoes and rutabaga, this was a perfect winter food.

All of this was washed down with a Kelpie Seaweed Ale, a Scottish chocolate ale brewed with bladderwrack seaweed. Think chocolate with a bit of brininess. Tasty, and low-alcohol enough to go well with dinner – plus I really loved the label!
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The great thing about dinner with 9 people is that you almost always have room for dessert, because you’re sharing nearly everything and eating tiny, tapas-like amounts of it all. Even better, if you’re lucky, with 9 people it is totally reasonable to order EVERY DESSERT ON THE MENU and eat the round-robin style. If you have never had such an experience I highly recommend grabbing 8 other people and finding a spot that carries 4-5 dessert options. You will not regret this.
We ate:
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A deep-fried Mars Bar! Way better than any of us had expected it to be, mostly because it was lightly sprinkled with sea salt, which the ladies at the table figured would make nearly any dessert appealing to us, but also because it was all melty and warm inside, and the coating was crisper and tastier than I, for one, was expecting.

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A tart of lemon curd, scented with rosemary smoke. This was the most flamboyant dish, coming as it did with elements that were on fire. You can pretty much always impress with open flame tableside. The taste was also fantastic, however, like a lemon square that had upgraded from the church bake sale and learned to be fancy.

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This is cranachan, a traditional Scottish dessert similar to a parfait – layers of fruit, whipped cream, and whiskey are topped with toasted oatmeal. The fruit in ours was, as is seasonally appropriate, cranberries. Valerie, upon enjoying her first spoonful of cranchan, exclaimed “I want to write poetry to this!”

However, the cranachan was soon upstaged by our last dessert, another traditional beauty. Alas, due to the dark, my photo hardly does her justice:
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That is sticky toffee pudding, and that is pure joy on a plate. Imagine a rich, moist sponge cake enrobed in the thickest, darkest toffee sauce possible. The taste is burnt sugar molasses goodness. If you put sea salt on top of it might possibly die right at the table. Upon biting into this, Valerie was moved to say, “If I wanted to write poetry to that, this I want to eat in the back seat of my car!” Her sister, Elise, then summed it up thus: “[Cranachan] is who you take on a nice date, to dinner. Sticky toffee pudding is who you call up after when you didn’t get any.”

Here at Adventures in Food we like to keep it classy.

The waitress, who really was an absolute delight, did us one last favor and took a picture of the whole group:
Hats!
It is painfully obvious who did and did not skip the hat portion of our day, but we love you guys anyway!

A big thank you to the delightful staff of The Haven, who put up with a rotating number of people, our ridiculously early selves, and a very large party with grace and charm. I can’t wait to go back and try their brunch!

Orange Line Adventures – Part I

Let me start with a big thank you to everyone who made this day such a great time: Valerie, Elise, Dan, Gary, Jenn, Ben, Matty and Jill – these adventures are a lot more fun with a big group of people! To those who couldn’t make it, we missed you, and I hope you make it to the next one!

It all began with haggis. What it turned into was so much more – sasquatch and lunchboxes, cupcakes and fedoras, seaweed beer and burning rosemary. But haggis was the start of it all.

For those of you who don’t know, haggis is a traditional Scottish dish, a sort of sausage or savory pudding. It is famous, or perhaps infamous, for its ingredients; in addition to oats and spices, the primary ingredients are sheep “pluck” – the heart, liver and lungs (it was actually illegal in the US until this past January, due to that last ingredient. Read more about it here.) The whole mixture is combined, then put into a sheep’s stomach or intestines to simmer. While for many people these are good reasons to avoid haggis, here at Adventures in Food it’s something to run toward.

However, much like Polish food, and Filipino cuisine, it is not as easy as one might imagine to enjoy haggis in the greater Boston area. Much like those previous adventures, there is only one restaurant that I know of serving Scottish food in Boston, and it’s actually fairly new – The Haven, in Jamaica Plain.

Now, if you’re not familiar with the geography of Boston, Jamaica Plain will have little significance for you, but for myself and my fellow food adventurers it posed a little bit of a problem. It’s a wonderful neighborhood, with lots to do and see, but most of us live in Cambridge, Somerville, Arlington, and the surrounding towns. These are about as far from Jamaica Plain as you can get and still be part of metro Boston (to be completely truthful, none of those is actually Boston proper, while JP is.) So for a while we kept putting off the haggis experience, choosing things that were more convenient, or at least felt that way. And then, during our Kimball’s outing, I had a brainstorm. I couldn’t make JP easier to get to, but I could ensure that we got the most bang for our buck. There were a few spots in the vicinity of the restaurant that we wanted to visit as well – why not make one big day of it? We could visit the Greater Boston Bigfoot Research Institute, in Egleston Square, and Salmagundi, a hat store about a mile from the restaurant – places we might not get around to, otherwise. People liked the idea, and we ended up with seven for Bigfoot Research and hats, with two more for dinner.

The day arrived last Saturday – a surprisingly gorgeous fall day for mid-November. We met in Egleston Square, home of 826 Boston – a non-profit writing center based on the popular model started by Dave Eggers of McSweeney’s and friends in San Francisco at 826 Valencia Street. Each of the 826 sites (there are ? In the country) is in part financed by some sort of whimsical supply shop co-located with the writing center. The original boasts a store for all of your pirate needs, the NYC site a depot for would-be superheroes. Here in Boston we are blessed with a shop dedicated to all of the needs of a budding cryptozoologist – the Greater Boston Bigfoot Research Institute. Here you will find everything you need to track Bigfoot, trap a unicorn, or learn more about the eating habits of sea serpents. This mostly translates as waterproof notebooks, “unicorn tears,” and books on cryptozoology, but it’s all laid out in a charming, bright space. Obvious care has been put into the look of the place, with little labels in the style of old science labs detailing everything. Most of us left with tee-shirts or mugs, though I was enchanted by the “sasq-watch.” The store isn’t terribly big, but check it out – you’re supporting a good cause, and hey, you never know when those unicorn tears will come in handy.

From here we wandered down the T one stop into JP proper, for Salmagundi and some hat shopping! En route to Salmagundi we also made a couple of quick stops worth mentioning – one at Monumental Cupcakes, the other at a little antique store next door. While I did not partake of the cupcakes, the gentlemen who did assured me they were some of the best bakery cupcakes they’d ever had! And Gary made a sweet purchase at the antique store:
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Yes, folks, he is now the proud owner of an H.R. Pufnstuf metal lunchbox, thanks to the eagle eyes of yours truly and the antiques haven that is downtown Jamaica Plain.

After that brief, magical interlude we arrived at Salmagundi. Located on Centre Street, this store is the absolute mecca of hats – they literally have thousands of them, in every style you can imagine, from classic fedoras to trendy flat caps. They sell a small selection of clothes and cool accessories as well, but the headgear is the star of the show – along with the fabulous customer service. When we arrived the store was fairly hopping – but that didn’t stop owner Jessen and his crew from giving our folks their full attention. After over an hour of shopping, we each had a hat (or two!) to add to our collections. Yes, we DID wear them to the restaurant, and yes, we did get weird looks on the street as we walked the final mile to the restaurant. There’s something about a gang of 7 people in classy hats all walking down the street together that commands attention, and hey, we looked good!

When we arrived at The Haven, we were about an hour early for our reservation, so we decided to grab a drink at the bar while we waited for the final two members of our party to arrive. The restaurant is small but intimate, with lots of dark wood, low-lighting, and a general feeling of coziness and warmth. I checked in with the host, and as we ordered our beer he let us know that it would be fine for us to take our table – dinner service didn’t start for half-an-hour, but we were welcome to sit. Given that we had taken over the little bar we thought that a good idea and sat down. Our waitress brought bowls of lovely homemade pickles, crisp and fresh:
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(the red onion were outrageously good!)

She also brought oatcakes and butter, an immediate hit with our group. Softer than a cracker, but not as sweet as a cookie, these were a delightful treat with our beer while we waited for our companions:
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Once they arrived we set in to do some serious work on the menu! First, a round of appetizers was in order. We decided on one of the specials, a duck liver terrine, served with more oatcakes, grainy brown mustard, and sweet onions. Not terribly traditional, but it was divine:
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The terrine was smooth, silky, dark and rich, highlighted perfectly by the accompaniments.

We also had a plate of smoked fish:
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Bridie, a tradition pastry similar to Cornish pasties.
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Think a buttery, flaky pie crust, filled in this case with sweet, roasted autumn vegetables.

And finally, Scotch eggs!
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These little beauties are becoming popular on other Boston bar menus, and it’s easy to understand why. A hard boiled egg, wrapped in sausage meat, coated in bread crumbs, and fried, they’re the perfect combination of taste and texture – salty, slightly rubbery (but in a good way!) crunchy and soft – for eating with a pint of something tasty. Mustard makes the ideal accompaniment, and the salad served alongside stops it from being unforgivably decadent.

And now, after all the haggis build-up, I’m going to do something terrible and make you come back for a part II! This post is already a behemoth and I want to do justice to the great meal we had. Check back tomorrow for the rest of this tale!

Adventure List Review, and a Poll!

Waaaay back in August of 2009, I posted several ideas for adventures this blog could embark upon. Now, over a year later, many of these have been realized. Let’s take a look:
Foods:

Grasshoppers – this one is actually happening in September!

Dragon Fruit – also soon, I bought one at Super 88

Durian – I’m scared, but fascinated

Sweet breads

Haggis
More on this is coming soon!


Huitlacoche – might be able to do with the grasshoppers


Cactus – ditto

Outings:

Sushi, possibly at Fugakyu? – I know, not very exciting, and I’ve eaten it lots of times, but I have a friend who is not a bold eater who wants to go.
We didn’t go to Fugakyu, and I didn’t write about it, but we did go! Would you want to see this written up?

Starlight Lounge – excited for this to open! Ditto that I don’t think I ever wrote about it, and I really need to go back, as it was so early in their history.

No. 9 Park – probably won’t happen for a while… This is still true, though I’ve been to Barbara Lynch’s Sportello several times!

Garden at the Cellar Apparently, I don’t tell you guys about anything I do...

Eastern Standard
See what I mean?

Oleana

Ten Tables – Cambridge or JP, I haven’t been to either!

Kimballs – grew up near here, but want to take some friends who are uninitiated

The Big E – my favorite yearly food adventure!

Speed’s – the best hot dog in Boston, so they say…

Underground Food Party/Supper Club – may have a chance to go to one of these soon…

Projects:

Pasta making – a friend gave me the means ages ago, I need to just DO it. And now I have my own. THIS WINTER, FRIENDS.

Sausage making

Curing bacon

Hard cheese – mozzarella, only the first step?

Bagels

Beer – used to do it, want to get back into it


What do we learn from this list? First, we learn that I apparently keep a lot of things from you. Whoops. Second, we learn that I’m clearly better at eating food and going out than I am about projects, which is odd given how much I cook at home. Clearly I just prefer to tackle other, secret projects and tell you about those. Nonetheless, in slightly over a year I’ve completed quite a few of these adventures, which can only mean one thing: It’s time for another list!

When we went on the Scottish food outing, which I promise that I WILL tell you about and not at all keep secret, I asked the attendees to help me create a list of new adventures. What’s great about this new list is that it’s centered around group outings, which means fewer of those project-type goals that I failed to meet last year. Not that I’m abandoning those, but clearly I don’t need any NEW ones. In no particular order, here’s what we came up with:

Turducken
Shabu-shabu – I’ve done this, but pre-blog
Tapas – ditto!
Creole
Russian – again, in my former life…
Vegan – there’s a swanky place near my house!
Laotian – if we can find a restaurant. This one might be tricky.
Raw
Potluck, in the style of church lady cookbooks, or 1950′s fare – I imagine the ladies will need to wear white gloves!
Book “Menu” recreation – Inspired by this blog, which recounts memorable descriptions of meals. This could be an entirely new category for the blog!

Speaking of which, here’s the poll – what features do you like seeing on the blog? Are there other features you’d like to see? Anything you wish I’d get rid of (though I retain the right to keep it anyway, if I like it!):

Feel free to add suggestions in the comments. And check back soon for the write-up of our JP outing!

Bread Adventures

Hello there! Did you all miss me? I hope you’ll forgive the shocking amount of blog silence of late – things have been insanely busy both at work and at home, and I’ve had little time for either food OR writing.

However, last weekend I finally got to work on a project that I’ve been waiting for ages to do, ever since I learned that a certain cookbook was coming out, and that it contained a certain recipe. You see, near my place of employment is a marvelous bakery – Flour. It’s actually the second location in what is now a mighty empire of three, and it’s a fabulous addition to the Fort Point food choices. For the most part I visit them not for their baked goods, but for the delicious, creative sandwiches, soups, and other lunch choices they offer. (If you’re in town, rush down to any of their locations and order the BLT. You will not regret it.)

However, owner Joanne Chang is rightly known for her pastry skills. Her homemade oreo cookies and pop tarts are the subjects of many glowing reviews, and her sticky buns are legendary – she trounced Bobby Flay in a throw-down with ‘em. Flour is a bakery at its heart, after all, and it has one treat in particular that I can’t resist, that captivates my imagination. It’s not nearly as decadent as the sticky buns, nor as kitschy-cute as a homemade oreo. But lord, is it tasty. My weakness? The sugar brioche bun.

For those of you not up on your French bread varieties, brioche is basically bread turned up to 11. It’s chock-full of eggs and butter, resulting in an exceptionally rich and tender crumb. Brioche is what you’d get if white bread and a croissant had a baby, and I love it.

The sugar buns take this concept to the next level, because as Mr. Menace sagely pointed out, they are essentially high-class, French monkey bread. Baked in muffin cups, they’re easy to pull apart, rich and buttery and just dusted in sugar. Soft, tender, and wonderful, this is the breakfast I choose when I’ve had a really good run and have no need to be virtuous. (When I wish to be virtuous, I get Flour’s phenomenal oatmeal – steel-cut oats with seasonal fruit and nuts. The fact that it is not available year-round is a tragedy, but perhaps I am the only person on the planet who would happily eat a bowl of oatmeal mid-summer.)

So, a while back, I learned that Chang was coming out with a cookbook. And thanks to the magic of Twitter, I learned from the great lady herself that the sugar brioche bun recipe would be in said book! It was only a matter of time before the secret was mine!

As it turned out, a bit more time than I thought, because when I finally had the book in my hot little hands, the recipe called for bread flour, the one flour my pantry was currently lacking. And since bread flour has a higher gluten content than all-purpose (gluten is the protein you get from kneading bread – more gluten means more stretchy, bonded-together bread) there was no way I could substitute. Le sigh.

Eventually I gathered all of my ingredients together, along with just enough time to make my buns (another secret of brioche is that it’s proofed – risen – in the fridge. This slows down the yeast production and lets you create more flavor without letting the yeast run amok and burn itself out. This means it takes a long time to get brioche dough completely ready to bake.) I’m not going to share the whole recipe here, because you should really go buy Ms. Chang’s book. It’s got fantastic photos, and the directions are explicit and easy to follow. I will say that the brioche needed quite a bit of kneading, to the point that my poor beleaguered Kitchen-Aid was thumping like mad for about 20 minutes straight. I cannot imagine doing this recipe by hand, even though I know it’s existed since the 15th century and pre-dates stand mixers.

What I will do is show you, in photos, what happened when I moved from the brioche dough into the actual sugar buns!

Here’s the dough, before any handiwork is done:
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Next I shaped it into a 10×5 rectangle. The dough is super-pliable and easy to shape. Yes, I used a ruler to measure my dough-tangle, because I am precise like that. No, my rectangle is not perfect, because I am sloppy like that.
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Slice it up!
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And again, into cute little dough cubes:
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These are put into waiting muffin cups in groups of five, and given a final proofing stage of 1.5 hours. The little cubes get all puffy in their muffin-prison:
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And then bake! This fuses the dough-cubes together into a sort of Frankensteinian amalgamation, the better for tearing off tasty hunks of:
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So golden brown!

Then I brushed the tops with melted butter and rolled them in a sugar and spice mix. I ran the sugar through the food processor first – part of the charm of Flour’s version is that they use extra-fine sugar, allowing for a better coating.
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In the end, my buns were maybe not quite as light and airy as Flour’s – I suspect my yeast is getting old and needs to be retired. Still, they tasted rich and wonderful – well worth all the eggs, butter, and labor!
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The real question is what I will do with the other half of the brioche dough – the recipe makes enough for two! The famous sticky buns, or the brioche au chocolat? Decisions, decisions!

Reminder – the next food adventure is next week! On November 13th we will be visting The Haven for Scottish fare. Please let me know if you’d like to attend – I need to make reservations this weekend!